After exploring Northern Catalonia, Girona and the Pyrenees last May, Edward returned to the Iberian peninsula for another week of Spanish bikepacking - this time pointing his wheels south west. Leaving Salou and the Costa Dorada, heading out of the province of Tarragona through Castellón, before coming to a stop nearly 550km later in Valencia. Here’s his account of seven days of riding and 8000 metres of climbing - ouch!
Contrast. This adjective spills out of enthusiastic tourism bodies' websites, litters the social media of tour companies and peppers the marketing emails of budget airlines. Parts of Italy, the Balkans, maybe - perhaps even portions of the UK. There are many European countries that promise contrast, all in a small geographical area. Landscape swings from coast to country or city. Cultural, historical or gastronomy shifts in double quick time.
But this part of Eastern Spain is for me, and especially as a cyclist, a land of complete and rapid contrast. Here you can find yourself riding the Mediterranean coastline one hour, and the next you’ll have bolted up a quiet mountain road and found yourself amongst a pristine network of gravel tracks.
It’s this feeling that brought my riding partner and me back to Spain this year. And the fact that, let’s face it, in these well-ridden regions of Catalonia and Valencia, there are still roads and gravel tracks that feel undiscovered.
My bike in full-on bikepacking mode for this trip. Image: Edward Kingston
This latest bikepacking trip took us from the busy coastline of Salou south and inland towards Valencia, following a mix of quiet roads, gravel sectors, climbs and rolling agricultural landscapes.
Here’s the exact Komoot route.
Day One - Into the Mountains
Starting in Salou, I decided to ensure the route wasted no time heading inland. The first major test was a steady climb covering 21 miles (!), topping out at 3,329ft in the Prades Mountains, notable for their rounded rocky outcrops, at Puig de la Torre.
From there, the ride opened up into some of the best gravel of the trip. Fast, flowing trails carried us for over 25 miles before dropping towards the Riu Ebre, finishing the day in the quiet riverside town of Mora d’Ebre.
Leaving the flat lands and heading for the mountains. Image: Edward Kingston
A mural in Vilaplana. Part of the Ferré i Revascall als murs - an urban art initiative celebrating rural traditions and the life of artist Josep Ferré i Revascall who lived in the town. Image: Edward Kingston
Sweeping Spanish tarmac. Image: Edward Kingston
At day's end. Image: Edward Kingston
Day Two – Following the Ebre
With severe weather warnings in the mountains, our plans had to change.
Instead of heading higher, we followed the River Ebre, riding incredible gravel tracks that wound through Tortosa and a string of small, characterful Spanish villages. The route gradually flattened as we moved towards the coast, eventually joining the coastal cycleway into Vinaròs for the night.
The mighty Ebre. Image: Edward Kingston
Winding our way through village streets. Image: Edward Kingston
Feel the rush. Image: Edward Kingston
Day Three – Castles and Coastlines
The day started gently along the coast before a mandatory stop at the Templar Castle in Peñíscola one of the standout locations of the trip. On its rocky outcrop above the Mediterranean Sea, the Castell de Peñíscola might be familiar to those of you who have watched the 1961 classic El Cid, or for those with more modern tastes, Game of Thrones and the city of of Meereen.
From there, the route turned back to gravel, cutting through the Reserva Natural Marina d’Irta - one of the last vestiges of virgin coastline in this part of Spain. This section had everything: rugged coastline, forest tracks, quiet beaches and just a handful of other riders sharing the trail.
Looking back down to the coast. Image: Edward Kingston
We finished the day inland at Castelló de Planes, tired but with one of the most visually varied days behind us.
Evening Spanish light. Delightful. Image: Edward Kingston
Day Four – Into the Hills
Shorter on paper, but one of the toughest days.
With storms building, we climbed back into the mountains, tackling El Cabezo before hitting a series of steep gradients and long, rolling ascents. Repeated climbs pushed us towards 2,800ft, linking valleys via quiet roads and gravel tracks.
A well-timed stop in Torralba del Pinar gave us a chance to refuel before pushing on again. The reward came later to views over the lakes of Río Mijares before descending into the spa town of Montanejos.
Pushing on to another Spanish village hilltop. Image: Edward Kingston
Day Five – The Push to Valencia
The final big day started with a 12km climb straight out of breakfast, reaching the summit of Arenillas just shy of 3,000ft.
A long 10km descent took us to Odón for coffee and another rethink. With more severe weather incoming, we adjusted the route and joined the Ojos Negros Greenway.
This old railway line stretches for 167km, cutting through tunnels, valleys and remote landscapes. It gave us a fast, direct line towards the coast, where we picked up the cycleway into Valencia.
After days in the mountains, rolling into the city felt like a different world.
Day Six – Valencia by Bike
An early start gave us time to explore the city properly.
We joined a guided bike tour with Eduardo, a relaxed three-hour ride through Valencia’s historic streets, parks and landmarks. It was the perfect way to see the city from a different perspective.
Yes Eduardo! Image: Edward Kingston
The day finished as it should: with a proper Valencian paella at La Pepica on the beachfront.
And as Hemingway - an author with interesting links to cycling - wrote "In Valencia, it's damned stupendous at the beach or in the city to eat a melon washed down with a real cold jug of beer."
Final Day – Tarragona Loop
With time before the flight back from Reus, there was one last ride to squeeze in.
We headed north to Tarragona, a historic Roman city that once played a key role in Spain’s commercial development. The ride took in tree-lined streets, coastal views and a visit to the impressive Roman Ferreres Aqueduct.
What did the Romans do for us?! Image: Edward Kingston
From there, it was an easy spin back along river and coastal paths, finishing with food, ice cream and the inevitable task of packing the bikes and gear away. Speaking of which, here’s what I was riding.
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Carradice Harrop Handlebar Bag
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Carradice Colorado Saddlebag 12L - Test
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Carradice Pennine Top Tube Bag
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Carradice 4L Frame Bag - Test
Testing, testing. Image: Edward Kingston
I had on test a smaller, 12L version of the Colorado saddlebag. Image: Edward Kingston
Spain remains one of Europe’s best countries for bikepacking simply because of the variety. In a single day you can move from coastal riding to genuine mountain terrain without needing complicated logistics. And for that reason it’s no surprise that the Valencia region in particular has become increasingly recognised for adventure and gravel riding.
Another real riding adventure in the books. Where next?
