There’s something about Scotland that keeps calling you back. Is it because it's the most remote you can feel on the British mainland? Is it because of the views? Or is it simply just that the riding is so, so brilliant?
Our recent three-day ride through Perth & Kinross was yet another reminder of just how wonderful Scotland is for bikepacking - even if you’ve just got a long weekend to spare. An unforgettable ride along old railway lines, ancient drover trails, and the quiet beauty of Scottish lochs.
Bench (and bike stand) with a view. Image: Edward Kingston
Day 1: Crieff to Aberfeldy. Railway Relics and Riverside Camping
We rolled out of Crieff, gateway to the Highlands, with our bikes loaded and spirits high - apt given the town is home to Scotland’s oldest working Whiskey distillery - The Glenturret.
Following the gentle gradients of disused railway lines and drovers’ tracks, we flitted eastwards to Aberfeldy. The route took us through the postcard villages of Comrie and St Fillans, hugging the shimmering edges of Loch Earn before weaving past Loch Tay. At 150 metres deep, this dark blue body of water is one of the deepest in Scotland, and it wasn’t surprising to learn that archaeology has dated the earliest human activity here to between 7000 and 8000BC!
The three span Kenmore Bridge was completed in the 1770's. Image: Edward Kingston
As the landscape shifted constantly between lush glens, forest tracks, and quiet B-roads, we made good time, stopping to soak in the views (and the occasional midge attack) along the way.
By the time we reached Killin, with its roaring falls and stone bridge, we’d already fallen under Perthshire’s spell. The day ended with tents pitched on the grassy banks of the River Tay at Aberfeldy as the evening light began to turn golden over the water. A hot meal, a dram from the hip flask, and the gentle rush of the river as our soundtrack to the evening - this was bikepacking bliss.
Day 2: Aberfeldy to Dunkeld. A Summit Push
We knew day two would be the toughest day of our three-day tour, and it didn’t disappoint. The climb up Beinn Eagagach was a long, punishing effort, but the views from the top made it all worthwhile. Loch Derculich sparkling below, the mountains layered in the distance.
BAAW. Classic of the genre. Image: Edward Kingston
As much a part of Scotland as kilts, tartan and whiskey, mythology is everywhere you look here, and it wasn’t surprising to learn of another piece of folklore right here, under our wheel tracks. Here’s author James Kennedy in his 1928 book, Folklore and Reminiscences of Strathtay and Grandtully. “Loch Derculich was the habitation of a ‘Tarbh Uisge’ (water bull). Less than one hundred and twenty years ago, the Loch Derculich Water Bull was seen sauntering along its shores. At peat-making times, it was observed very frequently.” Crickey!
Wait a minute, that isn't... No, surely! Image: Edward Kingston
The descent off Beinn Eagagach into the forested edge of Loch Tummel was fast and technical, with a welcome lunch stop in Pitlochry to refuel and shake out the legs.
After lunch, we headed back over the mountains towards Dunkeld, with its mix of historic charm and outdoor vibes. By the time we reached camp, our legs were weary, but our spirits were soaring. A quick dip in the river and a few local ales and pizza later, and we were swapping stories about today’s ride, the climb, the descent and possible sightings of the Water Bull!
Day 3: Dunkeld to Crieff. High Passes and a chance Bothy
The final day followed Sustrans Route 7 (a huge 500-mile route which links Sunderland with Inverness) for a stretch before we turned off and back into the hills. The long drag up to Craig Lee and Creag na Criche was a test of stamina, but the trail delivered in spades. Far-reaching views, remote trails, and that intoxicating feeling of being a long way from anywhere. There’s that Scottish remoteness again!
Does this image give you the urge to go riding? [Yes, yes it does. Ed] Image: Edward Kingston
Just when the effort started to grind us down, we stumbled across a hillside bothy, a lucky stop. Despite a drastic decline over these wonderful buildings in recent years, there are still over 100 dotted across the landscape. Food and drinks, a wind shelter, and the chance to gather ourselves for the final push. Then came the glorious descent back toward Crieff, fast and flowing, all the effort of the past two and a half days paying off - that's cycling, right?
Audax Hotels. 3*, a bit drafty. Image: Edward Kingston
We finished the trip with a visit to the Glenturret distillery for a well-earned whisky and some reflection on the ride. Perth & Kinross had given us its best: brutal climbs, sublime views, quiet roads, and a real sense of journey.
Slàinte mhath. Cheers Scotland! Image: Edward Kingston
Bikepacking Gear for our Perth & Kinross Trip
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Colorado Saddlebag & Bagman Support Rack – Stable, spacious, and unfazed by rough terrain.
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Bowland Handlebar Bag – Perfect for snacks, layers, and quick-access gear.
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Pennine Top Tube Bag – Great for electronics and ride essentials.
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Enigma Escape – A titanium workhorse that handled everything from gravel to hike-a-bike without missing a beat.
Perthshire proved to be the perfect mix of challenge and reward. If you’re looking for a rugged bikepacking route packed with natural beauty, remote tracks, and just enough luxury (hello, distillery), this one’s worth putting on your list.
